Wide Open For Discovery

• La Grande has long been a hub for much of eastern Oregon. The natural hot springs and abundant wildlife and vegetation attracted the Bannock, Nez Perce, and Cayuse people to the Grande Ronde Valley during the mild months. Later, European explorers, trappers, missionaries, and finally pioneers also enjoyed a respite in this huge round valley. A stop at the visitor center of the Union County Tourism, next to Blockbuster Video on the corner of Fourth and Adams, will provide complete information on how to explore northeastern Oregon. (www.visitlagrande.com) Pick up a guide at the visitor center and take a walking tour of the community’s historic homes. Explore the many fine shops and restaurants in the beautiful brick buildings that make up La Grande’s downtown. There are lots of choices for dining, with menus ranging from Mexican food to Northwest Cuisine, including three restaurants that are listed in Northwest Best Places. The campus of Eastern Oregon University sits on the hill above the historic downtown.

• Take OR Hwy. 82, following the signs to Elgin. The blue sky, fresh air, and wonderful aroma of mint are invigorating. The Grande Ronde Valley, named by early French trappers, is one of the nation’s major producers of mint oil and grass seed. While in Elgin, stop for a peek or a performance at the Elgin Opera House. Built in 1912 and recently restored, this opera house is known for its turn-of-the-century charm, stamped tin ceilings, fine acoustics, and fresh buttered popcorn (541-437-3456). Local performances and first-run movies keep the ghosts of yesterday alive and entertained. The Opera House also houses the community’s historical museum.

Eagles
Eagles, Karen L. Carlsen

• Traveling Hwy. 82 toward the Wallowa Valley, the road climbs from the river bottom to the plateau country. Early ranching families toiled in the deep soil and nursed the natural springs to bring even more life to the prairie. With pockets of timber and grassy fields, the area looks much as it did 150 years ago. Continue on, dropping into the confluence of the Minam and Wallowa Rivers. While descending into the river canyon, watch for Rocky Mountain elk on the hillsides. Some of the best steelhead fishing in Oregon can be found here and farther down the Grande Ronde. Little Creek Outfitters (541-963-7878) offers float and fishing trips and the opportunity to catch the “BIG” one! Call local visitor information centers for other outfitters in the region. Take Yarrington Road for a side trip to Looking Glass Fish Hatchery and a glimpse of the salmon recovery program. Campers will enjoy Minam State Park, situated right on the banks of the Wallowa River two miles downstream from the highway. The Wallowa, Minam, and Grande Ronde Rivers are just three of the many federally designated Wild & Scenic Rivers and State Scenic Waterways in the region.

• Hwy. 82 winds along the sparkling Wallowa River. The narrow canyon soon opens up into the extraordinarily beautiful Wallowa Valley. Rimmed by the 10,000-foot high Wallowa Mountains, the valley elicits a collective “Wow!” from everyone in the vehicle. This is the home of the Nez Perce. Friends to Lewis & Clark and early settlers, the Nez Perce once occupied large land areas of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. This valley held special significance.

“I buried him in that valley of the winding water. I love that land more than all the rest of the world.” Young Chief Joseph

• When the United States Government was given control of much of the Nez Perce lands in the Stevens Treaty of 1855, the Nez Perce were supposed to keep the heart of their domain, including the Wallowas. But things changed, and promises were broken by the U.S. government, representing the American people, in 1877. With one of history’s great and tragic military feats, Young Chief Joseph led a group of 750 men, women, and children in an attempt to reach Canada. Hotly pursued by soldiers, they made it to within 50 miles of safety before being captured in the Bears Paw Mountains of Montana and sent to reservations. Nee Me Poo Trail, the 1100-mile escape route, is a National Historic Trail.

Elkhorn Ridge/Blue Mountains
Elkhorn Ridge/Blue Mountains, Jeffrey L. Torretta

* Helpful Books & Supportive Literature: The Flight of the Nez Perce, by Mark H. Brown, University of Nebraska Press

• For nearly 120 years, no Nez Perce tribal member lived in Wallowa County. Today, residents of the little town of Wallowa and the Nez Perce are working together to build the Wallowa Band Nez Perce Trail Interpretive Center. The facility will tell the story and provide a gathering place where tribal customs and culture will be preserved in the land first inhabited by the Nez Perce (800-585-4121).

• Continuing up the valley on Hwy. 82, take a detour north on Hwy. 3 toward Flora to peer into the dramatic Joseph Canyon from the Joseph Canyon Overlook (541-432-9452). This was a winter camp site for the Nez Perce.

• The little towns of Wallowa, Lostine, Enterprise, and Joseph roll past your window—don’t rush through. Take time for friendly conversation with residents, and learn about the rich cultural history they embrace. Explore the antique and specialty shops, and take home something special. Have a latté while you watch Chief Joseph Mountain change in the subtle light. For a great orientation, stop just west of Enterprise at the U.S. Forest Service Wallowa Mountain Visitors’ Center (541-426-5546). This beautiful facility has a wonderful collection of Indian artifacts, along with interpretation, natural history displays, and literature about everything.

•In Joseph, tour Valley Bronze of Oregon (541-432-7551) and discover the “lost wax method” of making the larger-than-life-size bronze sculptures that line Joseph’s Art Walk on Main Street. Galleries here offer works by some the America’s most acclaimed sculptors.

Wallowa Mountains
Wallowa Mountains, Photo by David Jensen

• Witness the Great Joseph Bank Robbery during the summer months at the Wallowa County Museum (541-432-6095). The early ranchers in the area brought with them the practical artistry of barn building, which was very important for protecting summer hay crops for use in the dead of winter. The Wallowa Valley Barn Tour (541-426-0219) provides a great view of these structures, set against the backdrop of the Wallowa Mountains. The Manuel Museum (541-426-7235) in Joseph has a world-class collection of Indian artifacts, John Wayne mementos, and western art. Take a moment at the edge of Wallowa Lake to view the Chief Joseph Monument and grave site.

• Ice-age activities shaped the area around Wallowa Lake. The lateral moraines along the east and west edges of the lake were carved by glaciers as they inched their way down the valley. There are lots of activities to enjoy here: great fishing and water sports, go carts, miniature golf, hiking, Llama packing, or horse-back riding into the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Plan a few days for a mountain adventure. The wilderness has over 500 miles of trails through alpine meadows and past pristine lakes. Often called the “Alps of Oregon,” this breathtaking panorama can best be viewed from the Wallowa Lake Tramway (541-432-5331), the steepest vertical gondola ride in North America. Wallowa Lake State Park is a favorite camping facility for many people, and reservations are recommended (www.oregonstateparks.org).

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