• The ranching heritage of this area is obvious when driving south on Hwy. 395. Huge open grassy meadows appear when climbing up from the John Day River basin. Century-old ranches and little “don’t blink” towns dot the landscape. The land is productive and cared for, supplying habitat for pronghorns, mule deer, and many varieties of birds as well as livestock. The Ponderosa Ranch (www.ponderosa.com) near Seneca offers its guests a glimpse into the ranching way of life, providing opportunities for riding horses, herding cattle, and building fence. A comfortable lodge and cabins pamper guests at the end of a fulfilling day.
• Have lunch in Burns. There are lots of restaurants with a variety of menus from which to choose. Afterward, walk about and discover the many small gift shops offering Native American jewelry, specialty food items, collectibles and espresso on nearly every corner! The Harney County Chamber of Commerce offers information on just about everything you’d like to know about Oregon’s Wild, Wild, East! (541) 573-2636; www.harneycounty.com.
Steen's Mountain, Photo by David Jensen
* Sheep, cattle, horses, and later timber were the mainstay of this high-desert town. The Harney County Museum (541-573-5618) will introduce you to the history and characters of the area.
* Helpful supportive brochures & books: Peter French by Edward Gray
* Steens Mountain by Conkling, Jackman, and Scharff
Like No Other Place... Peter French Round Barn
One of the best-known characters in Harney County’s history is Peter French. At the peak of his reign, French owned over a dozen ranches covering almost 1.5 million acres. At one time it was estimated that French ran over 45,000 head of cattle, and 3,000 horses. He was known as a “Cattle Baron,” and ruled his kingdom with little regard or tolerance for the local homesteaders. Legend has it that Ed L. Oliver murdered French on December 26, 1897. While Oliver was acquitted by a jury, he mysteriously disappeared, and his family claims that he was murdered. The Round Barn is over 114 years old. It was built to break horses during the long winter months. The architecture is truly impressive and remains a symbol of the expansive cattle empire of Peter French. Contact Oregon State Parks at www.oregonstateparks.org
• The afternoon is a busy one, and it will be difficult not to spend another day or two exploring this vast, diverse area. Travel south on Hwy. 205 toward Frenchglen. This is a favorite area for birdwatchers. The region, and in particular the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, is wetland home in this high-desert country to over 320 bird species. A snack is in order as you reach the historic Frenchglen Hotel. Constructed in 1916, it remains a timeless haven for travelers. Just one mile east of town, visit the P-Ranch, headquarters for Peter French’s vast cattle operation. Usually open July through mid-October, the 66-mile Steens Mountain Back Country Byway, offers spectacular top-of-the-world views of glacial valleys, the Alvord Desert, and some of the best raptor viewing in the west. Bighorn sheep are often spotted. Call for road conditions, as cars with low clearance and motorhomes/trailers are not recommended.
Devine Canyon, Photo by Jeffrey L. Torretta
Don’t Miss THIS! Steens/Alvord Desert Big Loop Tour
Two hundred forty-three miles of awesome beauty and a vastness that breathes emotion into each individual experience. Marvel at the wide open Alvord Desert, feel the power of the gigantic uplifted fault known as Steens Mountain, and sigh at the sound of a breeze through the quaking aspen leaves. The land is big, and so are our appetites. What could taste better than a scrumptious hamburger and milk shake at the Fields Store & Café! Fly-fishing is usually great at Mann Lake, and you can top off the journey with a dip in the Crystal Crane Hot Springs in Crane.
• Back on the road heading north on Hwy. 205, turn right at Diamond Junction. Head toward Diamond, basically following the Diamond Loop Backcountry Byway. The Diamond Craters were formed some time in the last 25,000 years, and display the most diverse basaltic volcanic features in the nation. Prior to reaching Princeton, hang a left, driving west to the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. The entire refuge consists of more than 186,500 acres of prime habitat, including 120,000 acres of wetlands on the Pacific Flyway. Colonial waterbirds, and sandhill cranes are common inhabitants, using this area as a vital stopping place in their migratory life cycles.
Grandma’s Attic
Take a moment to get lost in Oard’s Museum and Gallery, where Mavis has collected everything from a 1780 piano to on old spinning wheel line, from typewriters to crank telephones. Located 28 miles east of Burns on Hwy. 20, it is a trip into the past with a real-live grandma as a guide.
